Why your hognose might be saying “no thanks” to dinner—and what you can do about it.
If you’ve spent any time around western hognose snakes, you’ve probably seen how enthusiastic they can be about food. Many rush to the front of their enclosure the moment they sense movement or smell prey. But not all hognose snakes fit that mold. Every now and then, you’ll meet one that turns its nose up (literally) at what you're offering. A picky eater can be frustrating—especially if you're new to keeping snakes—but rest assured, it's not uncommon. And the good news? There are plenty of tried-and-true methods to help even the most stubborn hognose start feeding consistently.
Before jumping to solutions, it helps to understand why a hognose snake might be picky in the first place.
In the wild, western hognose snakes (Heterodon nasicus) have a diet that leans heavily on amphibians—frogs and toads are common staples. They’re also known to eat small reptiles like lizards. This natural menu looks quite different from what they’re typically fed in captivity: mice.
While mice are convenient, affordable, and nutritionally complete, they don’t always match up with the instincts and preferences of a young or wild-type hognose. Especially for hatchlings or wild-caught individuals, the smell, shape, and texture of mice might simply not trigger a feeding response.
Here are some of the most frequent causes of feeding issues in hognose snakes:
Environmental Stress: A new enclosure, lack of hiding spots, incorrect temperatures, or frequent handling can lead to stress, which often suppresses appetite.
Brumation: Like many reptiles, hognose snakes naturally slow down during cooler months. If temperatures dip—even slightly—they may enter a state of brumation where feeding stops.
Diet Transition: A snake used to amphibians may not recognize a mouse as food right away.
Illness: Respiratory infections, internal parasites, and other health concerns can reduce appetite. If your snake shows signs of illness (e.g. wheezing, lethargy, mucus), consult a reptile vet immediately.
If your hognose snake is refusing to eat, there are several methods you can try to encourage feeding:
Leave the Prey in the Enclosure: Sometimes, the issue is simply timing. Place a thawed pinky or mouse in the enclosure (preferably in the evening when snakes are more active) and leave it for a few hours. Many snakes will eat when they feel unobserved and secure. Important: Always remove uneaten prey after a few hours to avoid spoilage and health risks.
Adjust Environmental Conditions: Temperature and stress are common culprits. Make sure your enclosure includes:
A comfortable snake is a more confident feeder.
Try a Smaller Prey Item: Larger prey can be intimidating. Try offering a smaller pinky or even a "day-one" pinky (newborn). If your hognose shows interest in smaller prey, gradually work your way up to appropriately sized meals. Tip: For guidance on prey sizing, check out our prey size chart.
Scenting the Prey: Scenting is one of the most effective methods to trigger a feeding response in picky hognoses. Here’s how it works:
This method is especially useful for hatchlings or snakes closer to their wild instincts.
Try Live Prey (With Caution): The movement and body heat of live prey can trigger instinctive strikes. However, live prey—especially fuzzy mice or bigger—can bite or scratch your snake. If you choose this method, use only pinkies (which don’t yet have teeth), and supervise the feeding closely.
Never leave a live rodent unattended with your snake.
One of the most effective techniques to encourage a picky hognose snake to eat is scenting. Scenting involves applying the scent of a prey item that your snake is more likely to recognize to the food you're offering. This method tricks the snake into believing the prey is something familiar from their natural diet. Here are some popular scenting methods:
Fish Scenting: Fish such as salmon, tuna, and sardines are easily accessible and can be used to scent the prey. Rub the frozen-thawed mouse or pinky on a piece of fish to transfer the scent. The strong smell can entice your snake to strike.
Frog Scenting: In the wild, hognose snakes often eat frogs, so using frog scent can be particularly effective. Commercial frog-scent products are available and can be applied to the prey item.
Lizard Scenting: Similar to frog scent, lizard scent can also be purchased and used to make the mouse more appealing to your snake.
Newborn hognose snakes can be particularly challenging when it comes to feeding. Some hatchlings will eat immediately when offered their first meal, which is ideal. However, others may be more stubborn, requiring patience and persistence. It's important to approach these steps gradually, over time, rather than all in one feeding session.
Initial Offerings: Begin by offering a thawed pinky mouse without any scenting. Place it in the enclosure and give the snake some time to approach it.
Leave the Pinky in the Enclosure: If the hatchling does not eat when you initially offer the pinky, you can leave it in the enclosure for a few hours. Only do this if the snake is housed alone to avoid any stress or interference from other snakes. As mentioned earlier, ensure that any uneaten food is removed to prevent decomposition.
Start Scenting: If the newborn still refuses to eat, begin scenting the pinky with fish or frog scents as described above. Sometimes, the familiar smell can trigger their feeding response.
Offering Salmon: If scenting doesn't work, you can try offering a small piece of salmon, cut to the same size as a pinky mouse. Freeze the pieces and offer them thawed, just like you would with mice. This method mimics the natural prey they might find in the wild.
Offering Live Pinky: In some cases, offering a live pinky mouse can trigger a feeding response, especially in newborns. The movement and warmth of a live pinky can entice the snake to strike and feed. However, always supervise this process closely and remove the live prey if it is not eaten within a short time to avoid any potential injury to the snake.
Force Feeding (Last Resort): Force feeding should only be considered as a last resort and should be performed by someone experienced. Improper technique can cause significant stress or injury to the snake, potentially leading to long-term feeding issues or even death. If you've exhausted all other options and your snake still won't eat, consult a veterinarian or a reptile specialist to assist with force feeding.
Note: Force feeding can be stressful and dangerous if done improperly. It should never be your first option.
It’s important to remember that snakes don’t need to eat as frequently as mammals. A healthy hognose snake can go weeks without food without suffering harm. Focus on keeping conditions optimal and offering food consistently. Many picky eaters eventually “flip a switch” and start eating reliably.
And if you're currently raising your first hatchlings and wondering what to expect, check out our post: "Our First Feeding with 16 Baby Hognoses – What Worked (and What Didn’t)."
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